Notes from Spetses

Onward!

Of the Greek islands I’ve visited so far, both on this and on prior trips, Spetses is my favourite. I’d happily make it the only destination on a future trip.

It’s late afternoon on a Sunday when I step off the ferry from Aegina via Poros. Judging by the scene I’m greeted with, however, you’d think it was Friday night. I count at least six cafés and restaurants around the port in Dapia, each full to the brim, customers spilling out and mingling with passers by. People also hang over wrought iron balconies on the apartments above smoking and chatting with people on the balconies next to them or with people on the street level. It’s as if everyone has gathered to welcome the newbies and those returning to the island as well as those regretfully departing.

It’s a short walk from the harbour to Hotel Villa Plaza, my home for the next three nights, and after dumping my bags I head back out to experience the town for myself. My first impressions are that Spetses is more refined and well maintained than somewhere like Aegina, fitting as the island is known to some as ‘the Monaco of Greece.’ Strolling around the harbour I see outlets selling Orlebar Brown, Ralph Lauren, and other luxury brands. The buildings are stately, the plazas neatly pebbled, and streets clean and tidy.

Spetses

It’s a stark contrast to my previous stop, Aegina. Everything there is a little more rough around the edges and showing signs of wear and tear. Known for its seafood restaurants, a strong smell of fish hangs in the air. While Spetses’ restaurants are as keen on fish as Aegina’s, judging by the menus placed outside restaurants, there’s no pong to be found here. Choosing one of the many establishments located around a small square one street back from the harbour I dine on delicious Tzatziki and bread as well as fried cheese with honey and sesame, followed by fine pork souvlaki, all washed down with a dry white wine. This is the life. Altogether the meal sets me back €25/£20 which isn’t half bad. There are plenty of places to choose from and being here off-peak means everything is quieter and therefore slightly more enjoyable. It’s been a real highlight this whole trip.

After a fitful sleep I acquaint myself with the sights of Spetses. The first morning I walk to the outskirts of Dapia, specifically the Anargyreos & Korgialeneios School of Spetses, and work my way back meandering through the backstreets and footpaths shrouded in lush greenery and beautiful bougainvillea with its characteristic purple flowers adding bright splashes of colour. Spotting a small chapel (I can’t find a definite name but I think it’s Agios Vasilios) atop the hill above Spetses I navigate through the streets, eventually coming upon a rough dirt track which takes me to the top. Here I enjoy scene views of the whole town, all the way to the end of the Old Harbour and the islands in the distance. Working my way back down through the streets I marvel at the glorious and large houses, most hidden behind high walls, each with larges gates also adorned in bougainvillea and shrubbery.

As I continue on towards the Old Harbour area I stop by sights such as the Church of Agios Nikolaos, Anagyros Mansion, and the statue of Bouboulina, which celebrates Greek heroine and admiral Laskarina Bouboulina. Finally, I make it to the Lighthouse in Balitza which dates back to 1831 and is said to be one of the first lighthouses in Greece. The shaded woods around it not only provide a cool sanctuary from the sun, but a calm place to sit down, and enjoy the view. It’s here, sat on a solitary bench looking out over the brilliant azure blue waters of the Spetses Strait, with the lighthouse stood solidly behind me, that I experience the most clarity of thought I’ve had for a long time. It’s as if step by step ideas and thoughts have been worked and pounded out and crystallised now. With the sounds of water gently folding upon rock in the background I write down my ideas in a small leather bound notebook ambition flaring confidently. Having also compiled a checklist of things to work though and consider I take a second to enjoy this moment before continuing on.

As I slowly make my way home I come across the small pebble beach of Garifallos in between the Old Harbour and the beach of Agia Marina. Off the beaten track, there’s barely anyone on it. It seems mainly enjoyed by locals. I spend most of the next day lying on the stone beach alternating between sunbathing, reading, and swimming.

All in all it’s been a brilliant couple of days. I’ve managed to do a bit of everything and enjoy my surroundings. I also feel like I’m really making progress now to something constructive coming out of this whole experience, which is heartening. In regard to the ideas I mentioned above, I’m taking some time to consider them now that I have them down on paper before proceeding further. But I’m excited, which is a nice feeling. Hydra, the next stop and the last island on my mini tour of Greece, has a lot to live up to!