Notes from Poros
Island 1 of 4
Life on Poros seems enviably simple. Sat outside the Thiseus artisan bakery in the port town I watch as the sailing boats drifts dreamily here and there. Traders yell to one another jovially, singing songs, or discussing the day’s business (I assume). Meanwhile, tourists wander casually by, peaking into the shops and tavernas. No one is rushing and no one seems stressed despite the volume at which some are communicating. I’m sure there’s more going on underneath the surface and in the conversations I can’t understand but to the outsider it feels like a world away from anything back home.
It’s my last day on Poros, the first of four islands on my Greek island hopping expedition, and it’s been a gentle start to the trip. Most of my time has been spent lying on soft sandy beaches taking the occasional dip in the clear blue waters of the Saronic Gulf. I’ve been based in the Zontanos Apartments in Askeli Bay for the last few days, a short taxi ride (a twenty minute walk - at my pace) from the main port town. The definition of basic my apartment came with two single beds, a small kitchenette composed of a sink, fridge, kettle, and portable stove top, and a small separate bathroom, and a balcony. I went for a garden view but guests can also book sea-view for a small amount extra. But as tired and in need of sprucing up as the apartments may be, they’re more than suitable for a few days living especially when most of every day has been spent sunbathing on Askeli beach less than five minutes walk away. For food I’ve happily survived on shop bought pastries and juice for breakfast, sandwiches I’ve prepared for lunch, and Greek salads for dinner and therefore only needed the bare necessities. No worries or strife here.
Mornings have been occupied with walks into town or to the nearby Zoodochos Pigi of Kalavria Monastery (Monastery of the life-giving Spirit) followed by afternoons on either Askeli beach or Monastiri beach. The red roofed town of Poros’ main port is an attraction in its own right. Built around and up a hill it doesn’t take long to get to the top, and the highest point on the island, where there are gorgeous views of the town, the port, sea, and neighbouring islands and the Greek mainland. Atop the hill is also the clocktower, which nears its 100th birthday, which makes for a charming attraction. It’s nice to stop momentarily, take in the view, and enjoy the silence and the gentle breeze. Also in the town there’s the archeological museum, a library, and a cinema with a rooftop bar as well as many cafés and tavernas. In my planning I came across the Glykisma bakery which serves up an array of local delicacies. The Bougatsa (custard-filled pastry covered in powdered sugar and cinnamon) came highly recommended but they were out when I got there. Instead I tried the Galaktoboureko, a similar sweet treat of filo pastry and custard. It was delicious and one helping was more than enough!
The monastery is a 20-30 minute (again, at my pace) walk in the opposite direction to the town (starting from Askeli beach). Much of it is closed off to the public save for a small courtyard and chapel inside the grounds. A warning, there are rules about what clothing you should wear to enter which I didn’t find out about until I got there. Men should wear long trousers and no sleeveless shirts, and women should not wear shorts, short skirts, trousers of any kind, tube tops and sleeveless shirts. And people should not wear swimsuits of any kind whatsoever. However, there are clothes provided and hung up inside the monastery entrance for people to use should they not be prepared. Having seen no mention of a dress code whatsoever in my research I turned up with a swimsuit underneath my shorts (as I planned to visit Monastiri beach at the bottom of the hill afterward) and a sleeveless top so was completely unprepared. Monastiri beach makes for a quieter, more secluded spot in which to sunbathe and read. I had hoped to walk further up the hill on my way back to see the Temple of Poseidon but a sign said the road was closed so I scrapped that plan.
Living a somewhat stripped back existence has helped, I think, in provoking some thoughts and ideas. I’ve found the meditative sounds of waves rhythmically crashing against the shore useful in coming up with ideas and for the future as well as making decisions about what I do and, perhaps more importantly, don’t want to do post travels. It’s all very exciting. I’ve also felt a greater sense of contentment here, even in just a few days. For a few years my family would holiday on Crete and I hadn’t quite realised the fondness I had developed for Greece as a whole. On a few occasions here I’ve found myself just taking in the scenery, the lush green trees covering the hills, the clear water, the golden sands, and enjoyed a huge sigh of relief. And I think there are lessons I can takeaway from the Greeks. The seemingly laid back attitude to life here is something I could sorely do with inhabiting. It all just makes me want to learn Greek so I can stay here. I don’t know what I’d do though…